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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.